t-shirt couture

The ingenious Emily Larned of RedCharming, who I’ve written about before, sent me scans of her new publication, LOOKBOOK 54. It is all about the glorious T, a wearable blank canvas as it were. The concept is simple, but best explained by the artist herself…

What is the most reductive form that can yield the most variety in meaning? Possibly the white t-shirt. Tight it is James Dean, huge it is hip hop. It’s not what you wear, it’s how you wear it.

In LOOKBOOK 54, fifty-four different characters are created with nothing but one XL white t-shirt and common household supplies (binder clips, safety pins, duct tape) used as styling aids. All accessories serve a function and the shirt is never cut or permanently altered. The book is designed such that each sheet has the front and back of each look, but then these sheets are nested one inside another into a single large pamphlet bound together by an (archival) plastiband. You can view the 54 looks by flipping through the book to see juxtapositions of all fronts and then all backs, or you can remove the plastiband, take apart the book, and instantaneously see the two views of each look.

The patterned backdrop used in the shoot is another way one thing can behave like many things: it is oriented vertically when the shirt is styled as a dress, horizontally when styled as a top, and diagonally in the accompanying booklet LOOKBOOK 54 COMPANION, which features accessories, make-up, and hair styles all made with office supplies. For safekeeping, the two books are packaged together in a resealable polypropylene bag. And, for the collector, there’s the very Special Limited Edition: signed copies of LOOKBOOK 54 and the COMPANION accompanied by an XL white t-shirt, housed together in a sewn-by-the-artist drawstring bag made from the photoshoot backdrop. The edition is limited to the supply of the original backdrop fabric, and is available exclusively through Booklyn.

These 3 looks are enough to set my gourd a-wondering about what mind-borders the other FIFTY ONE looks could be knockin down! I’m off to the dollar store to load up on XL white wonders and then find out what drugs she’s taking.

You can purchase the book and preview a few more looks here.

Cosby Sweater Couture

Coziness is at the top of my list of favorite moods. I flee from soggy, cold climates like the plague. I’m a spooning aficionado. So sweaters are essential to me. However, I’ve never experienced the sensation of being dressed arms to ankles in knitwear. After seeing this collection by Marie-Louise Vogt via Fashion156 on a chilly Chicago day, that’s ALL I want to do.

knitwearknit poncho pantsponchoheadband knitknit pantsbicycle shortscutoutssweater dress
You can purchase all this beauty for a very shiny penny (240,00€ – 380,00€) at Style Server.

Not that those cut-out vests would be entirely cozy, but still, I’m absolutely hankering for those skinny pants and cocktail dresses! That poncho could easily become a staple (the bicycle shorts, maybe notsomuch). Do you think I would be completely and utterly remiss to attempt to sew scraps of vintage uglysweaters together to devise patchwork wonders like these? I don’t know, but as soon as I get back to my beloved sewing machine, I’m going to busy myself with such janky-ass futzing, PRONTO.

Ask Painfully Hip: What the heck should I do with all these oversized men’s shirts?

Hi Amber and Eve,
My dad was cleaning out his wardrobe and found a dozen button up shirts he didn’t wear anymore. He gave them to me :) but I don’t know how I could wear them or alter them to make them wearable. They’re pretty large. Do you have any tips?
Thanks!
Ronnie

hi ronnie!
amber and eve passed your question along to me, (because i LOVE to sew!), so i’m going to see what i can do to help you out here. (ps. how lucky are you to get all those shirts?!?! i’m jealous!)

ok, so i’ll admit that i did a little bit of a google search on the topic before i sat down to tackle it, and i have to say that i wouldn’t wish those search results on anyone. one especially fantastic message board was plastered with sentences such as “sow the sides of the shirt smaller and cut off the collier.” (i’m not even sure what a collier is on a shirt…) and fantastic fashion advice such as: “pop the collar, belt it with a wide neon belt, and wear matching pointy toed pumps and black leggings.”
frankly, i’m hoping we can do better than that. i don’t mean to offend anyone and their personal style, but i feel like that look is just… really over-done.

amber had a really awesome idea of cutting out around the collar (collier?) and turning them into poofy halter dresses. since i always have to take things a step too far, my reaction was, “yeah! and what if you left a strip connected to the collar, to make it a t-back?!” you could do this with or without the sleeves.

the main thing you need to figure out is if the shoulders fit. this is the key to wearing any over-sized top without looking sloppy (or like you’re drowning!): well-fitting shoulders. one of my favorite thrift store finds was this over-size silk blouse, that, believe it or not, is marked as an “extra small” because it fits small through the shoulders. (please ignore the walking cast on the foot i’m trying to hide!) because of the fit through the shoulders, i’ve been able to pair it with all sorts of things without looking like i was playing “dress up.” (well… my boyfriend strongly disagrees with that last statement, but i’ve found that the best response to that is “you chose me!!”)

oversized button-down

if the shoulders fit, unless you want to drastically change the look of the shirt, you don’t have to do much sewing. if they don’t… well then it might take a little more effort. if you have any experience sewing, you can take the sleeves off, re-size the shoulders and arm holes, and then re-attach the sleeves. you can re-size the shirt by using your favorite fitting top as a pattern (be sure to remember to factor in enough of a seam allowance!). if you don’t really have much sewing experience, you will probably want to get someone to help you with this (or email me and i can give you more detailed instructions).

if you detach the sleeves, sewing them back on can be a lot of fun – you can leave them big and puffy, or tighten them up. you can leave them long, or shorten them to any length – even cute little cap sleeves. right now i’m having a lot of fun leaving the cuffs on, shortening the length to around the elbow, and then buttoning the cuff to make a puff sleeve.

to change the actual shape of the shirt, you can do all sorts of things – you could add darts in the side or vertically, and give the shirt a more feminine shape. you could also take the sides in a bit. you could sew a channel around the waistline a run a ribbon through it to create a draw-string.

styling the shirt is going to be even more of a chance to get creative. you could always go with the popped-collar pointy-toed pump/matching belt look, but i’ve been having a lot of fun trying different things – belt it high with a skinny belt, and then wear something loose and feminine underneath for spring – short bloomers or lacy vintage tap pants, tall white stockings and broken-in over-the-knee boots (or vintage woven flats?). i want to find a mini crinoline and create a very full (short!) skirt look. tighten it around your waist with a belt and roll the sleeves up so you don’t lose yourself in all that fabric! you could leave it loose and full and button a snug-fitting vintage vest over the top, or even try the corset-over-shirt look. one of the advantages to leaving the shirts loose is that you can then pair them up with very feminine pieces and not feel too baby-dollish.

Got a question? Ask Painfully Hip!

check me out: DIY cigarette pants and monochromatic chic

“j” reminded me that i was going to alter some 70′s bell-bottom cords ($2.50) into cigarette pants to wear with my delish electric blue thrifted pumps ($4). so i did. and they’re my new favorite pants.

before:

beforepants.jpg

after:
blueblue.jpg

I’m actually leaving to go camping in Joshua Tree National Park in about an hour, but i just had to throw on these pumps real quick for the sake of monochromity? monochromocrity? monochromicity? The shirt is a relic from my childhood that my dad designed for the tiny farming town we grew up in (it’s a painting of a cow and a sheep facing off, an illustration of healthy small town competition between Gardnerville and Minden, NV). The belt was thrifted for $1 and the flight bag was 25 cents (!) at a garage sale. So that makes the grand total for this outfit less than $8.

Have a great weekend folky ones. I’ll be back on monday night. enjoy the oscars (go p.t. anderson)!!

EDIT:
Wow, thanks for all the great feedback you guys! “Talented?” “Amazing job?” You’re just lucky you can’t see the inside of these. One word: Janky. I warned you there would be futzing! Seriously, I would do a tutorial but it would probably do you more harm than good. I literally just put them on inside out, pinned where I wanted to sew (my first mistake- i have pinpricks up and down my ankles now), and then just sewed them up in as straight a line as I could manage. That’s the beauty of altering cheap thrift finds, if you completely wreck it, what are your losses? …A bit of thread (more than I’d like to admit in my case) and a $2 pair of pants that you were never going wear anyway. So my advice is to just try to have fun with it and learn along the way. And remember not to punish your sewing machine for your sad lack of skills, it was only trying to help after all.