Diana came to me with this well-written piece on recession buzzwords and exactly why they piss her off, and while she thought perhaps it may be too “political” for Painfully Hip, I am stoked to present it to you. Diana’s “rants” are consistently a fun read and I’m hoping beyond [...]]]>

by Diana Deaver

Diana came to me with this well-written piece on recession buzzwords and exactly why they piss her off, and while she thought perhaps it may be too “political” for Painfully Hip, I am stoked to present it to you. Diana’s “rants” are consistently a fun read and I’m hoping beyond hope that this might get a discussion going because, for some reason, comments on this blog have slowed to a drizzle (Did I do something wrong? Is the new layout confusing? Let me know!).
EDIT: Ah! Mystery solved. Spinnerette noticed that my theme was making her comments dissipate into the atmosphere! Sorry about that everyone, it is now fixed). To reward you for your patience (and your comments), I have now installed CommentLuv, so you can promote your favorite blog post in your comment.

Now get dressed up in some ridiculous pastel confection and go eat some eggs!
-Amber

Like a good portion of the world, I am beginning to find myself having unpleasant physical reactions to phrases such as, “in these difficult times,” and any advice suggesting I give up pretending we’re not in the throes of an economic crisis and “button up” the proverbial purse snaps. It’s only worsened by the fact that more and more frequently these phrases are being uttered by multi-million dollar corporations who have been silently clawing through well-intentioned posts on entirely non-corporate indie fashion blogs, and are starting to realize (oh, say, half a decade too late?) that “diy,” closet “remixing,” and thrifting are the “hip” thing to do right now. God forbid we start a trend that isn’t mass-market friendly.

(And to answer Tricia’s question, yes, it fucking infuriates me that these marketing departments are scouring personal – and usually entirely non-profitable – blogs, and making money off of the creativity and ingenuity found within, by selling it back to us.)

It pisses me off even more that such sources are touting this eco-friendly approach as the “hottest new trend,” as if it actually were such, and not in fact a mind-set, as well as a way of life.

The sickening attempt at the mass-market sell-ability of thrift – with the even grosser title “recessionista” – is about as nauseating as Wal-mart throwing the words “emo” or even – god forbid – “indie” – on a tee-shirt tag. (cue swarms of high-school girls stashing their Miley cd’s and hopping in the family Escalade to buy the newest Deathcab. It is not my intention to judge someone’s worth based on personal taste. I am simply trying to point out the fickle nature of “trend.” Original of me, I know.)

Ask any true music aficionado if pasting “emo” on a tee-shirt makes it so, however, and you’ll be lucky if the least you get is a death-stare. “Emo” (as well as “indie,” “metal,” “country,” “hip-hop” and any other gross generalization of a genre I might have over-looked,) isn’t a style of clothing. It isn’t a floppy haircut with pink tips. It isn’t even really referring to the music category itself. If you somehow get lucky and pose this ridiculous question to a friendly music-lover who happens to have a lot patience that day, you most likely will be graced with an answer along these lines:
“(insert music genre) actually refers to a way of life that said music style results from.”

Art and opinion are both results of our day-to-day experience, and every day (most of us) wear clothes.
It’s not hard to make the connection then, that the style we choose (if we consciously choose it) would reflect back to our personal opinions on what it means to exist in this world. I enjoy thrifting. I think creating a new look with recycled garments is fun. These are the precursors to my dressing myself each day.
They are not the goal I am trying to achieve by layering just the right diy-looking pieces that I recently purchased at the mall.

I grew up poor. I am not saying this to invoke sympathy or to build a soapbox. It’s just a fact. I grew up in an economically depressed corner of the country in an even more economically depressed family.

But here’s the thing – growing up I was taught that thrift stores weren’t something you shamefully ducked into – they were the most magical dress-up box you could imagine. They were the only place where you held the possibility of finding a brand new pair of jeans, a fantastic psychedelic dress and a perfectly broken-in tee shirt from your favorite band, all in one place. For under $10. And somehow, sorting through all the crap just made finding the good stuff even better.

The other thing my “poor poverty-stricken parents” taught me was that raw materials are cheap, skills are invaluable, and if you have any sort of creative instinct, you’re not likely to find the things you’re dreaming of in a department store anyway. Being passionately interested in fashion, (and – ahem – dressing in “period costumes” from wagon-trail times – I was 9, ok?) it is only logical that I taught myself to sew.

These interests and skills (along with a sense of responsibility towards preserving the planet and our natural resources – thanks mom and dad,) transitioned into adulthood with me and became an integral part of who I am.

I am not a recessionista.
Therefore, I will never stop being a recessionista.
(God, I feel like I just typed, “punk’s not dead…”)
If the world woke up tomorrow morning and this recession was nothing more than an awkward dream, I would still schedule in a quick trip to Saver’s on my way home from class.

Referring to this trend of being more conscientious with our dollars as being a “recessionista” implies that we’re all just sitting here waiting for the big ugly fad to blow over – we’re stoically poking fun, and maybe even wearing it like leggings in a, “These Are Pants – Seriously Guys,” sort of way. We’ll buy in for a season or two for the ironic, eye-rolling humor of it all.

Calling oneself a “recessionista” smacks of that same stale air of self-entitlement, which seems to have brought us into this “troubled” situation to begin with. It implies that – although this monetary shortage (or debt increase?) is actually putting us out quite immensely – and it’s not really fair that this season we can’t buy the entire new wardrobe we deserve – we’ll shrug our shoulders, giggle a bit, coin a new term and call it trend-setting.

Besides, I feel it’s pretty safe to assume the people who genuinely call themselves “recessionista’s” aren’t the ones who are living off of beans and rice at the moment, anyway.

It seems that it all boils down to a desperate attempt to appear (to whom? The rest of the planet, who quite often are living in third-world conditions?) to be a free-spirited martyr of a spoiled hostess – “well, the crudités platter wasn’t at all what I arranged with the caterers, but I managed to show the guests a fantastic time anyway.”
But in reality, this is a gift – we are suddenly given the chance to slow down and think about what exactly it is we are attracted to aesthetically – what is worth spending our dollars on? What do we own that can be re-fashioned? What can you sew when you combine the forces of your creativity and your own two hands?

So I propose this, recessionistas – and everyone else as well (myself included.):
How about we stop focusing on what we don’t have – how about we stop prefacing every success with a “despite everything that was holding me back” – how about we stop listing what we want, what we feel we’re owed, what we think we’re entitled to, and all the ways that we’ve unfairly had to make the best of a “bad situation,” and start narrowing in on all the self-sufficient ways we’re able to gracefully express who we really are?

Haute 80s Glam Silky one-piece Deep V Harem Jumpsuit Art Deco Pendant Statement Necklace Hot 70s mint green halter maxi dress Exquisite Oleg Cassini deep V sequin beaded blouse sold Unbelievable pleated backless jumpsuit with lace applique Awesome 90s off-the-shoulder eyelet jumpsuit with stirrups [...]]]>

Haute 80s Glam Silky one-piece Deep V Harem Jumpsuit
Art Deco Pendant Statement Necklace
Hot 70s mint green halter maxi dress
Exquisite Oleg Cassini deep V sequin beaded blouse sold
Unbelievable pleated backless jumpsuit with lace applique
Awesome 90s off-the-shoulder eyelet jumpsuit with stirrups
Futuristic black, silver and gold waist belt
Sweet 80s black ruched leather heeled bow boots 7.5-8 sold
Perfect red and black 80s cropped marching band jacket
40s sumptuous vintage fur jacket with tres chic angular shoulders
Click to purchase!

We had so much fun on this shoot! This was Eileen’s first time modeling, if you can believe that, and she looks like she was born on in front of the camera. Crystal (of Article Salon in Roseville) did some amazing things with Eileen’s asymmetrical platinum coif. The too adorable Tyler & Christina took my left-field neo-noir ideas and made beautiful art out of them. Christina also rocked the makeup and brought out the luminescence of Eileen’s skin. Tracy of Vintage Found did such a great job finding 80s vintage inspired by 40s futurism that my styling job was hardly a job at all. Skills! Thunderhorse Vintage provided the blue/black jumpsuit and the amazing sequin blouse (which totally reminds me of this cyberpunk gypsy dress from the Glamourai). Thanks all! I am THRILLED with the results!

Also, please take note that two items from the last PHDC photoshoot , found here and here, are up for auction at the amazing Market Publique (exclusive auctions for only the best vintage! Prices are easy on the eyes too!) at a fraction of their original prices. Calm down, ladies.

Devastating 80s harem pants with geometric print sold
Amazing 90s turquoise acidwash denim romper onesie sold

These outfits went heavy on accessories and over-the-top on nostalgia.

Check out these [...]]]>

Haha, I feel like that title alone brought me back to the 80s where words like AEROBA-CISE were being thrown around. Well, brace yourselves for 88 mph in a Delorean because Thunderhorse Vintage is about to flex your capacitors.

These outfits went heavy on accessories and over-the-top on nostalgia.

Check out these amazing vintage harem pants with an 80s neon geometric pattern. The shape is very chic at the moment, so working against their former A-Ha loving self, we threw on a slim black tank, a metallic floral vest and a large dose of unpredictable accessories. My model, Jillian called this her favorite outfit and couldn’t help completely rocking it.

Who doesn’t love a leather bustier? Let us know because we’d like to avoid them. Layer it over a cropped 80s mom dress and a green leather mini skirt with some 50s cat-eyes, and you’re running the front desk at Ghostbusters HQ.

Vintage Harem Pants sold
Metallic Floral Vest
Baroque Jeweled Belt (worn as harness) sold
Art Deco Pendant Necklace
Hot Pink 80s Secretary Blouse sold
Amazing Leather Bustier
Futuristic Waist Belt
Seafoam Leather High-Waisted Mini Skirt
Shiny Black Ankle Boots
Silver Lace Oversize Hair Bow sold
Gold threaded cateye specs sold

I think we all happen upon trends that we’re just not sure about. I fought the comeback of leggings and I lost that one–happily, it turns out. But I also wasn’t sure about dresses over pants and I stand by that one…which brings me to my current conundrum: harem pants. [...]]]>

By Mary Catherine

I think we all happen upon trends that we’re just not sure about. I fought the comeback of leggings and I lost that one–happily, it turns out. But I also wasn’t sure about dresses over pants and I stand by that one…which brings me to my current conundrum: harem pants. Amber and I were talking about if they’re actually Hammer pants or maybe gypsy pants? I think all the names apply, with maybe the dropped-crotch aspect being a definitive characteristic of the Hammer variety. For the sake of this post, I’m going to refer to them all as harem pants and say upfront that I don’t think the extreme dropped crotch helps anybody and all the crotches here are just–looser, let’s say.

What I’m talking about is a silhouette that is different from the skinny pipe-leg jean silhouette that we’ve all been seeing for a while now. I have a couple pairs of pleat-front shorts and I love them. It’s different, feels a little more retro-modern and has a casual, less body-conscious look overall which can be interesting.

My question is -are they one of those items that only works on the tall-skinnies or is there a way for the rest of us to pull them off? I remember seeing Sienna Miller in a pair a few years ago and I thought she looked great. She’s not incredibly tall or emaciated, and though she got a lot of flack for them, I thought it was a really interesting choice and she looked cute. And I’ve been seeing more versions of them popping up here and there and they have me feeling curious…So I trolled around on the interwebbies today looking for more examples and found a few that were terrifying, but some that I thought really worked.

Witness:

Both of these are from the ebay store Funkin Junkie. And though their model is clearly thin and probably not 5’2″, I think she looks great because she got the surrounding elements and proportions right. When you have some voluminous fabric, it’s best to keep everything around it fairly simple and on the fitted side. I would think a snug little tank top is key if you’re going to go blousy below. And I was thinking, too, that proportionally, the high, fitted waist could do a lot of favors in terms of making one’s waist appear smaller and maybe disguising some of things some of us might want disguised in the bottom area. And for my money, seeing a bit of the ankles seems to be very helpful in giving the look room to breathe. I also think you need the highest possible heel in your closet.

Urban Outfitters had a couple of them as well:

Again, a high, chunky heel and a little bit of ankle. The first ones I can see as a great springtime-throw-them-on-with-a-tank no-nonsense outfits. I know the second ones aren’t technically harem pants, but I thought they were super-cute and the silhouette is similar and I think the same rules apply.

I was also thinking the thrifting possibilities for these–especially the pleated pants– would be pretty good for a bit…I found a bunch (about 20 different pairs) on etsy that I am considering…Even though I am 5’2″, I think I can pull them off by keeping the blouson effect fairly tamed (perhaps a simple alteration here and there), and following the rules above.

What do we think? Is it a do or a don’t??

Your blog is very well done… The photos of other people’s styles that you post are very creative and appealing. However, I feel that your style is somewhat average and bland. I don’t mean to be rude or anything, but it [...]]]>

Last week I received my first ever negative comment regarding an outfit:

Your blog is very well done… The photos of other people’s styles that you post are very creative and appealing. However, I feel that your style is somewhat average and bland. I don’t mean to be rude or anything, but it seems like you admire great and interesting fashion, yet your outfits seem typical and.. well, not so interesting. I was just curious as to why you don’t seem to take many risks with your clothing.

I hope you don’t take this the wrong way. Just some constructive feedback!
-Lenora

Gah.

As this was in response to my relatively adventurous turquoise leopard print dress and weird neon purple and yellow astronomy-patterned bag, I was a bit astounded at first. As I thought of ways to defend my shallow sense of dignity (not limited to simply deleting the comment and going on my merry way), astonishment quickly turned to defiance, then quietly to resolve. She was totally calling me out on my shit!

The reason I started this blog was because of my love of shopping at a time when I lacked sufficient means to support even a weekly thrifting trip. The only things I ever bought were clothes that were flattering, comfortable and timeless – pieces from which I could squeeze my money’s worth. My practicality (nevermind my lack of dough) was literally stifling my personal style. Blogging gave me a way to “shop” for things I would love to be wearing at that very moment, without creating a vacuum in my wallet. Plus it constantly inspired me to make do with what I had.

Fast forward one year. I had moved to a new city, the perfect time to reinvent oneself. But now that I could afford a few thrifting trips, I was having a difficult time kicking old shopping habits. My new business is based in fashion and design, so I always have potential clients on my mind when I dress. I found myself watering down my personal style in order to try and please everyone’s expectations – an impossible feat. Plus, because my first love is travel, I hate being anchored down with all kinds of stuff. So I was still being uber-choosy and erring on the side of practicality on any given day.

This blog has changed my life in a multitude of ways. My personal style has evolved faster than the Silicon Valley gene-pool. It has also literally helped me become self-sufficient and that has boosted my long-waning confidence. I owe it to my readers to practice what I preach.

So, Lenora, I’ve decided. I have sorta been phoning it in. And if I can’t take constructive criticism from a perfect stranger, who can I take it from? I wouldn’t have been so offended if I didn’t know deep down it was a little bit true. Thank you for lighting a much needed fire under my ass.

After some months of rabid thrifting and clothing swapping, I’ve now got enough signature pieces to put together a few outfits which encapsulate the many personalities of my personal style (whilst shunning my inherent habit of being too goddamn practical). I’m taking this as a challenge to come out of my closet and start baring my soft style underbelly. Be gentle with me.

Personality #1 – Blinding Color

leather jacket – gift
knit hoodie – flea market, 75 cents
green silk top – UAL, New Orleans $39
Wimbledon tennis shorts – Painfully Hip clothing swap in Chicago
houndstooth tights – Macy’s $7
red patent pumps (with chunky grey heels) – Marshall’s $19
feather earring – borrowed from Eve

Personality #2 – Mixed Patterns

little boys’ pinstriped blazer – thrifted $3
silk rose-print top – thrifted in Chicago $1
paisley print wrap skirt – Susie’s Deals $3
tooled leather corset belt – a gift from foxhuntvintage
cream cable-knit knee-highs – thrifted on the coast $1
stacked heel cowboy boots with cutout pattern – $1 (SERIOUSLY), the rummage room at Atelier!
(close-up of patterns here)

Personality #3 – Modernized Flapper

chiffon flapper dress (seen here sans jacket) – a gift from Michelle of LadyLanguage
leather belt – borrowed from Eve (her blooming baby is foiling her ability to don this awesome belt she bought in Belgium).
nude lace-up heels – thrifted in Chicago $2
Naik Fur hat – a gift! (available at Atelier for around $50)

Personality #4 – Self-Contradictory
(dressy vs. casual / masculine vs. feminine)

ruffled top- Rainbow in Chicago $10
Lucky Brand cut-offs – Painfully Hip Clothing Swap in Sacramento
I think next time I will wear this with more casual shoes and a grandpa fedora to balance things out.

(Photos by Rory Toolan)

The Glamourai wrote a great post on the same issue (in response to a negative comment regarding one of her fucking genius outfits):

“there really is such a
thing as dressing for YOURSELF. i like myself better
when i feel good in an outfit. i feel empowered by a beautiful
detail or a kooky print, and when it’s cold outside, i’d much
rather wear 15 different fun things than one big boring
sleeping-bag of a puffer coat. the more the merrier!!!
who gives a flip if someone else thinks it’s too much?
they don’t have to wear it.
…
‘the selfish pleasure i get?
it’s not in having someone make my photo in the street
(although that’s always flattering). it’s the way people in cafes,
subways, gas stations – and yes, on the street – smile and engage
with me. in a world that can be very isolated & disconnected,
where many people are living lonely, my personal style is a
language that i’ve realized enables me to make new
friends all over the world.”